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P E T S! All About Pets, Pets Pets Pets! *Read first post before replying, and I'm serious!*

#1251 User is offline   a-e-t 

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Posted 22 September 2009 - 03:55 PM

QUOTE (bashful_harmony @ Sep 22 2009, 09:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Oh, you're so nice! D: lol
And well.. I have a dog now! LOL. The owner called us again the next day saying we could keep one of them. We got the girl smile.gif
But... her old owners shaved off all her fur T-T so she's practically naked now *cries.
I was just wondering how long it'd take for her hair to grow 2 inches?
Also, she doesn't drink any water unless its ice cubes or when I pour in water while she eats from her bowl.


It depends on her diet and things like that, but probably a couple months. I'm a pretty firm believer in 'they're eat/drink when they are hungry/thirsty enough,' when it comes to dogs. Cats and rabbits, guinea pigs, etc can definitely not-eat themselves to death, but dogs will learn quickly enough what they have to do to survive. If you want to give her ice cubes, that's fine, but it might get tedious after a while. So it might be better to just let it learn to drink water. Also she might not be as thirsty as you'd think if she's eating canned food.

Be sure she's current on her vaccinations and (depending on where you live..) heartworm preventative!
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#1252 User is offline   Staypon 

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Posted 22 September 2009 - 04:16 PM

x___x;

So, the kitten is adjusting to my father's house, but I'm thinking about bringing it with me to my mother's house when it's my time to go with her to her house.. Is it bad to bring the kitten with me if it's just starting to go around my father's WHOLE house? It's just, I don't want it to be alone at my dad's (even when he's here, he'll make it sleep in the garage or something.. LIKE A DOG) -___- But again, I don't want it to stress out by trying to 'adjust' or whatever at my mom's.. What should I DOO.. ;o;

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#1253 User is offline   rainbowartist 

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 05:57 PM

Last Friday, my dad bought me two bunnies, male and female. It's my first time to have bunnies as pet and I noticed that they eat a lot. Is it normal that they eat all day? I give them a ball as a toy since I saw in Internet that they should have a toy like a ball but they just ignored it.

How many hours should I don't give them food? At one time I forgot to leave them food for three hours and when I come back they are really hungry. Should I give them one hour gap for them to digest their food? By the way they are already two and three weeks old. Tips will be appreciated.
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#1254 User is offline   a-e-t 

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Posted 23 September 2009 - 10:02 PM

QUOTE (rainbowartist @ Sep 24 2009, 01:57 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Last Friday, my dad bought me two bunnies, male and female. It's my first time to have bunnies as pet and I noticed that they eat a lot. Is it normal that they eat all day? I give them a ball as a toy since I saw in Internet that they should have a toy like a ball but they just ignored it.

How many hours should I don't give them food? At one time I forgot to leave them food for three hours and when I come back they are really hungry. Should I give them one hour gap for them to digest their food? By the way they are already two and three weeks old. Tips will be appreciated.


Rabbits should always have water to drink and hay to eat. At this age it's okay to let them eat alfalfa hay, but once they are over 6 months switch them to grass hay (Alfalfa will predispose to obesity and bladder stones). You can feed them (grass based) pellets a couple times a day but the total amount should not exceed 1/8 cup per 4-5 pounds. In addition, you can give them 1 cup of mixed vegetables per 4 pounds. As for treats, you can use prepackaged ones from the store or fresh fruit, but only give 1-2 tablespoons a day. They groom themselves a lot like cats and get hairballs, so it's recommended to give them fresh pineapple 3 days in a row each month to help them pass it. Rabbits can die from GI upset (bacterial imbalance), so when changing food (as in the different hays when the time comes) do it gradually over a week.

Definitely get them both fixed (for male: 3-4 months; female: 5-6) as it will help their temperament immensely, eliminate any chance of uterine cancer, and SHOULD allow them to be housed together (Female rabbits are notoriously aggressive to males entering their territory, and I'm not entirely sure spaying will solve that problem so monitor that closely).

You should start getting them litterbox trained at this point, too. If at first they don't want to use it, begin placing their feces in the box yourself when you clean the cage. They're clean animals and will want to keep their poops away from their eating and sleeping area. That way it will be less stressful to let them run around the house when they're older (well...maybe the idea of picking up poop from my floors is only stressful to me...).

Ah, well, that was more than I had originally intended to say, but I kept remembering more things... (Thank you Dr. Vincent/Exotic Animal class ...)
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#1255 User is offline   Aziraphale 

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 12:38 AM

QUOTE (Staypon @ Sep 23 2009, 02:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
x___x;

So, the kitten is adjusting to my father's house, but I'm thinking about bringing it with me to my mother's house when it's my time to go with her to her house.. Is it bad to bring the kitten with me if it's just starting to go around my father's WHOLE house? It's just, I don't want it to be alone at my dad's (even when he's here, he'll make it sleep in the garage or something.. LIKE A DOG) -___- But again, I don't want it to stress out by trying to 'adjust' or whatever at my mom's.. What should I DOO.. ;o;


How long do you spend at each house? Which house would be a better environment for your kitty to live in? Most cats don't like travelling or any form of upheaval. If your kitty is still trying to adjust to its new surroundings, I wouldn't advise shifting it about too much. Pick a house and make sure the kitty is able to receive good care and love wherever it decides to stay.
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#1256 User is offline   Staypon 

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 07:49 AM

QUOTE (Aziraphale @ Sep 24 2009, 09:38 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
How long do you spend at each house? Which house would be a better environment for your kitty to live in? Most cats don't like travelling or any form of upheaval. If your kitty is still trying to adjust to its new surroundings, I wouldn't advise shifting it about too much. Pick a house and make sure the kitty is able to receive good care and love wherever it decides to stay.


I decided to leave it at my mom's house since her house has more space for it to run around and stuff. I noticed that when I was bringing it to my mother's house, on the way it was meowing like crazy.. sleep.gif;

Okay, so it's okay at my mom's house now, but whenever I arrive at her house he keeps meowing and then tries to jump me.. like a dog. Then, I end up not being able to do my homework because it keeps meowing and looking at my lap then jumping on it. Is there such a thing as babying it? or spoiling it too much? I'm starting to feel that it's growing too dependent of me, or is that also normal as a kitten?
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#1257 User is offline   a-e-t 

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 08:53 AM

^^ It's a baby; it will grow more independent of you as it ages. They are a bit annoying at this stage, huh...Haha.
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#1258 User is offline   rainbowartist 

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 10:26 PM

QUOTE (a-e-t @ Sep 24 2009, 02:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Rabbits should always have water to drink and hay to eat. At this age it's okay to let them eat alfalfa hay, but once they are over 6 months switch them to grass hay (Alfalfa will predispose to obesity and bladder stones). You can feed them (grass based) pellets a couple times a day but the total amount should not exceed 1/8 cup per 4-5 pounds. In addition, you can give them 1 cup of mixed vegetables per 4 pounds. As for treats, you can use prepackaged ones from the store or fresh fruit, but only give 1-2 tablespoons a day. They groom themselves a lot like cats and get hairballs, so it's recommended to give them fresh pineapple 3 days in a row each month to help them pass it. Rabbits can die from GI upset (bacterial imbalance), so when changing food (as in the different hays when the time comes) do it gradually over a week.

Definitely get them both fixed (for male: 3-4 months; female: 5-6) as it will help their temperament immensely, eliminate any chance of uterine cancer, and SHOULD allow them to be housed together (Female rabbits are notoriously aggressive to males entering their territory, and I'm not entirely sure spaying will solve that problem so monitor that closely).

You should start getting them litterbox trained at this point, too. If at first they don't want to use it, begin placing their feces in the box yourself when you clean the cage. They're clean animals and will want to keep their poops away from their eating and sleeping area. That way it will be less stressful to let them run around the house when they're older (well...maybe the idea of picking up poop from my floors is only stressful to me...).

Ah, well, that was more than I had originally intended to say, but I kept remembering more things... (Thank you Dr. Vincent/Exotic Animal class ...)


Hi thanks for the tip. But I have a little problem, there's no available hays here in our place. I don't even know if hays exists in my country. So I'm feeding them green vegetables instead aside from pellets. Do you think its fine? As for drinks, is water the only allowed drink for them? How about fresh milk? Another question, what particular fruit should I give them? Sorry for asking many questions.
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#1259 User is offline   a-e-t 

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 04:27 PM

QUOTE (rainbowartist @ Sep 25 2009, 06:26 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hi thanks for the tip. But I have a little problem, there's no available hays here in our place. I don't even know if hays exists in my country. So I'm feeding them green vegetables instead aside from pellets. Do you think its fine? As for drinks, is water the only allowed drink for them? How about fresh milk? Another question, what particular fruit should I give them? Sorry for asking many questions.


Most animals are actually lactose intolerant and milk will upset their stomach. Pet stores usually sell hay for rabbits, and surely hay exists in your country, but where are you from? Vegetables aren't a good replacement for hay...Mm you could feed them grass if you are sure it has no chemicals on it, but that still...I don't know if that is good.

As for fruits, here is a site with all things you should NOT feed them, so just check it before feeding.
http://www.adoptarabbit.com/articles/toxic.html

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#1260 User is offline   bashful_harmony 

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 04:49 PM

QUOTE (a-e-t @ Sep 22 2009, 04:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
It depends on her diet and things like that, but probably a couple months. I'm a pretty firm believer in 'they're eat/drink when they are hungry/thirsty enough,' when it comes to dogs. Cats and rabbits, guinea pigs, etc can definitely not-eat themselves to death, but dogs will learn quickly enough what they have to do to survive. If you want to give her ice cubes, that's fine, but it might get tedious after a while. So it might be better to just let it learn to drink water. Also she might not be as thirsty as you'd think if she's eating canned food.

Be sure she's current on her vaccinations and (depending on where you live..) heartworm preventative!

*sighs, she looks like a Chihuahua/Pug mix right now LOL. So bald!! I did some research and generally, dog hair will grow 3/4 - 1" a month, so she's growing 3/16 of an inch a week LOL.

Anyways, I got her to drink water from her bowl finally biggrin.gif She still doesn't drink a lot, but she pees 2 or 3 times a day, and she's not dehydrated so I'm pretty sure she's fine. Omgsh, my bunny would eat all day if we let him TT-TT He's such a fattie, lol.

I'm taking her to the vet sometime this week to get a rabies certificate (she has her rabies shot already and has a rabies tag), check-up, etc. We need to get her a dog license (her old owners never got her one) but in LA County, it's a county law to have all dogs spayed/neutered and microchipped in order to qualify for a dog license. I'm not sure if I want to get her microchipped since I'm kind of iffy about the whole thing, and as for spaying... I have to wait a couple of months because I signed up for an appointment with the Humane Society to have them do the procedure since it's cheaper that way but the wait is kinda long. I'm really against microchipping but a dog license is required by law T_T I don't know what to do.

Also, she has these bad tear stains and I wipe her face and eyes everyday, but that doesn't really work and my cousins use Angels' Eyes and I'm considering using it for her, but I read that it contains antibiotics and the long-term effects are unknown..

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#1261 User is offline   a-e-t 

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 05:45 AM

QUOTE (bashful_harmony @ Sep 26 2009, 01:49 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
*sighs, she looks like a Chihuahua/Pug mix right now LOL. So bald!! I did some research and generally, dog hair will grow 3/4 - 1" a month, so she's growing 3/16 of an inch a week LOL.

Anyways, I got her to drink water from her bowl finally biggrin.gif She still doesn't drink a lot, but she pees 2 or 3 times a day, and she's not dehydrated so I'm pretty sure she's fine. Omgsh, my bunny would eat all day if we let him TT-TT He's such a fattie, lol.

I'm taking her to the vet sometime this week to get a rabies certificate (she has her rabies shot already and has a rabies tag), check-up, etc. We need to get her a dog license (her old owners never got her one) but in LA County, it's a county law to have all dogs spayed/neutered and microchipped in order to qualify for a dog license. I'm not sure if I want to get her microchipped since I'm kind of iffy about the whole thing, and as for spaying... I have to wait a couple of months because I signed up for an appointment with the Humane Society to have them do the procedure since it's cheaper that way but the wait is kinda long. I'm really against microchipping but a dog license is required by law T_T I don't know what to do.

Also, she has these bad tear stains and I wipe her face and eyes everyday, but that doesn't really work and my cousins use Angels' Eyes and I'm considering using it for her, but I read that it contains antibiotics and the long-term effects are unknown..


If I may ask, why are you against microchipping?

Tear stains are tricky..I really don't know of any good, safe products to take care of them and groomers I've talked to don't seem to know either. Well, continue wiping her eyes with warm water twice a day and when her coat grows out maybe you'll notice a difference.
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#1262 User is offline   bashful_harmony 

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 10:07 AM

QUOTE (a-e-t @ Sep 26 2009, 06:45 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If I may ask, why are you against microchipping?

Tear stains are tricky..I really don't know of any good, safe products to take care of them and groomers I've talked to don't seem to know either. Well, continue wiping her eyes with warm water twice a day and when her coat grows out maybe you'll notice a difference.

I guess I'm more against microchipping being made a law.
I get that some animals were able to reunited with their families because of microchipping, but I personally find the procedure inhumane and unnatural. I've read about how some animals had a difficult time adjusting to it and that their body would reject it, and how the microchip became lost in the animal's body.

I think that's freaking scary, lol. And addition to that, I think it's just another way for the state govt. to tax us even more -.-

Hmms, I guess I'll just ask the vet about the tear stains and see what she/he recommends.. but thank you so much for all the help and advice! biggrin.gif

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#1263 User is offline   a-e-t 

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 02:52 PM

QUOTE (bashful_harmony @ Sep 26 2009, 06:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I guess I'm more against microchipping being made a law.
I get that some animals were able to reunited with their families because of microchipping, but I personally find the procedure inhumane and unnatural. I've read about how some animals had a difficult time adjusting to it and that their body would reject it, and how the microchip became lost in the animal's body.

I think that's freaking scary, lol. And addition to that, I think it's just another way for the state govt. to tax us even more -.-

Hmms, I guess I'll just ask the vet about the tear stains and see what she/he recommends.. but thank you so much for all the help and advice! biggrin.gif


Well...I can assure you those things you heard are false. Though...I'm sure stranger things have happened and at least one animal has had something weird happen with its chip, it's so rare I've never heard of it, haha. Usually we encourage owners to have chips placed while their pets are getting spayed or neutered, so they don't feel the poke. However, that's all that is involved with microchipping -- a big poke. After that, the animal won't even know it's there.
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#1264 User is offline   Blake 

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 05:02 PM

QUOTE
I guess I'm more against microchipping being made a law.
I get that some animals were able to reunited with their families because of microchipping, but I personally find the procedure inhumane and unnatural. I've read about how some animals had a difficult time adjusting to it and that their body would reject it, and how the microchip became lost in the animal's body.

I think that's freaking scary, lol. And addition to that, I think it's just another way for the state govt. to tax us even more -.-

Hmms, I guess I'll just ask the vet about the tear stains and see what she/he recommends.. but thank you so much for all the help and advice!


I just wanted to jump in here and say i've watched three of my dogs get microchipped and none of them ever showed any signs of discomfort or pain during or after (also watched a bunch of dogs getting it done at a low cost clinic and never heard any of them cry or anything.) With all the stories i see in the news of dogs and cats being missing for years and only finally returned home because of a microchip i think they are very well worth it. Also seen a few cases of dogs stolen and a microchip was the only reason the families got the dogs back (was used as proof) >_< scary.

http://www.lovethatcat.com/spayneuter.html#states <If you're in the US you can check out this site if the humane society is taking too long. It's a list of vet's that'll fix pets for low cost.
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#1265 User is offline   Staypon 

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 11:31 PM

The kitten I have is doing fine now, but I tried putting this collar on him, and sometimes he would let me.. whenever I do get it on him though, he goes berserk or a little crazy - running around, rolling on the floor, trying to bite it, etc.. dry.gif

I think it's because it has a bell, but I see other cats with collars that have bells on them. Is it that collars are not for all cats? or is it that at such a young age, collars with bells aren't so good for kittens since they're so active?
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#1266 User is offline   Aziraphale 

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 01:25 AM

QUOTE (Staypon @ Sep 27 2009, 09:31 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The kitten I have is doing fine now, but I tried putting this collar on him, and sometimes he would let me.. whenever I do get it on him though, he goes berserk or a little crazy - running around, rolling on the floor, trying to bite it, etc.. dry.gif

I think it's because it has a bell, but I see other cats with collars that have bells on them. Is it that collars are not for all cats? or is it that at such a young age, collars with bells aren't so good for kittens since they're so active?


A collar (and microchip) is useful in the case of missing pets (touch wood!).

Mine has a collar with a tag (has his name and our info on it) and a bell. He didn't use to like collars but hasn't worked this one off for a year now and it's amazing. Good collars are an investment because you don't want kitty to wear them out too quickly. Assure kitty that the collar is good for him, and don't put it on too tightly. You should be able insert a finger under the collar so that there's enough breathing space for kitty.

My cat is using a Lupine collar. It's very good quality and after a year, still looks as good as new. Best of all, he hasn't felt the urge to take it off or wear it out, unlike his previous collar. It's true that not all cats like collars, but even the fussiest of cats can be content with a good collar.
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#1267 User is offline   a-e-t 

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:42 AM

^^ High five my cat has a Lupine, too. Rubber ducky w/ bell style, yeah~
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#1268 User is offline   Aziraphale 

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 12:05 PM

^ High five! Hahaha, mine's Silver Charm to match his fur colour, but the ducky one is cute too! I like the breakaway buckle (it was caled into action a couple of times) and their replacement guarantee, very few pet brands offer that. Have you tried the harness & lead?
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#1269 User is offline   a-e-t 

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 01:11 PM

QUOTE (Aziraphale @ Sep 27 2009, 08:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
^ High five! Hahaha, mine's Silver Charm to match his fur colour, but the ducky one is cute too! I like the breakaway buckle (it was caled into action a couple of times) and their replacement guarantee, very few pet brands offer that. Have you tried the harness & lead?


Nope...He stays inside all the time. Sometimes he escapes outside but he gets bored soon after and comes back in. He's pretty ornery too, so I think he'd just be pissed and refuse to walk at all.
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#1270 User is offline   Staypon 

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 07:00 PM

Your cats sound funny. xD
These Lupine collars you speak of.. Can I find them in the store? or do I have to order one.. <.<
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