Well, as some may have seen, I lost my 240sx in an accident over a month ago. I've been looking around for another car. It's taking me quite awhile and I'm getting a little desperate, but right now there's a guy offering to sell me his MR2 for a pretty good deal. So I have some questions.
Everything about the car seems like it's in very good condition, but the only bad thing about the car is that it has 170K on the engine, which is quite a lot, but from what I know toyota engines can last quite awhile. The car is one of the cleanest MR2's I've ever seen from year 91, so I assume the guy took very good care of it. Anybody know how long these engines last on average without needing a swap/rebuilding? It's non turbo so it's the 5SFE engine.
Also, are there any common problems with these cars that I should be aware of before I go check this car out? I read on some places that the tranny on this year MR2 is on the weak side, so I'm not too clear on that. I just want all the facts and maybe some advice from those with personal experience before I decide whether or not to buy the car.
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MR2 Questions I Need some help
#3
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 07:29 PM
91 5sfe mr2's are worth about... 2k-5k in the states...
my bf's 93 5sfe ran for about 100k miles before the motor was turbo'ed and right now its at 145k miles
and has yet to run into a real issue, the 5sfe is a motor that is built to last
as for common problems, or things to look out for you can basically go lookin at local mr2 forums,
mr2oc.com is a good place to start
but heres a quote from a magazine study awhile back
"(as published in August 2003 Sport Compact Car magazine)
Enthusiast Buying Guide
Toyota MR2
1991-1995
By Dan Barnes
By the late 1980s, the first Toyota MR2 was struggling to find buyers. A strengthening yen was causing prices to rise and insurance rates for the two-seat sports car were out of control. In addition, the competition was catching up. The new CRX Si was faster, more practical and more economical. Even the supercharged MR2 was in a no-man’s land between affordability and having the speed to run with bigger GTs. The MR2 was looking less and less like a good business plan.
But Toyota still built a new one, following the insurance premiums upward with a larger, faster and more expensive car. The first-generation 1989 models stayed in showrooms until mid-1990, when the new cars were brought in as 1991 models. The second generation lasted until 1995.
Today, a good second-gen. MR2 is one of the best buys on the used sport compact car market. The car is still great looking, and with a little help from the aftermarket, it can be a real giant killer.
BODY
To add interior space, the MR2 MkII was 8.7-inches longer, 1.3-inches wider, 0.2-inches higher, and had a 3.2-inch longer wheelbase than the car it replaced. The penalty paid for this size increase was weight; a nonturbo car weighs about 200 pounds more than a naturally aspirated MkI, and the Turbo tips the scales still 200 pounds beyond that.
Of course, the options list could affect this significantly, but since the Turbo was a premium model, it’s difficult to find one without heavy extras such as T-tops.
One major improvement was in aerodynamics, however, with the coefficient of drag falling from 0.36 on the MkI, or 0.35 with the spoiler, to 0.31.
CHASSIS
The MR2 was straightforward, building on the MkI with MacPherson struts all around. One technical highlight was optional electro-hydraulic power steering, with just 3.1 turns lock-to-lock vs. 3.7 for the manual rack. The system avoided the extra weight of long hydraulic lines and their potential for leaks by using an electric pump at the front of the car.
Not all was perfect, however. Under hard cornering, the rear wheels would toe out, causing difficult-to-control oversteer. Because of this, the rear suspension’s lateral links were lengthened by 98mm and the rear trailing arms’ attachment points were raised 3mm in 1993. This corrected the toe out, and reduced squat under acceleration and dive under braking. The modifications are compatible for retro-fitting, and the required changes are well documented on the Web.
Bigger brakes were also introduced on the Turbo in 1993, as were 15-inch wheels (6-inches wide in front and 7-inches wide in the rear) with 195/55-15 and 225/50-15 tires. Other minor changes included upgrades to the electrical system, all of which makes the 1993-and-later vehicles significantly more desirable.
Trim changes in 1994 include restyled taillights (a common retrofit to older models), and Turbos received two-piston front brake calipers by 1995.
DRIVETRAIN
The new turbocharged 3S-GTE engine made 200 hp at 6000 rpm and impressive low-end power, with 200 lb-ft of torque at only 3200 rpm. With bore and stroke identical at 86mm, it featured an iron block, aluminum head, and forged crank and rods.
The 5S-FE in the naturally aspirated cars was a long-stroke version of the same engine with 166cc more displacement, but had a restrictive cylinder head design and was tuned for torque, redlining at 6300 rpm instead of 7000 rpm like the Turbo.
These engines and the transmissions attached to them were the only major component the new car shared with any other Toyota model. Manual transmissions were five-speeds, with an optional four-speed automatic available only on nonturbo cars.
TUNING
Nonturbo MkIIs show better results in SCCA autocross, but the Turbo is the better car for the street. It starts out with a lot more power and increasing its output is a simple matter of turning up the boost--at first.
As output rises, several hardware changes become important. The stock intake manifold tends to put more air into cylinder three than the others, causing it to run leaner and eventually fail, usually at about 350 hp. The aerodynamic design of factory Toyota turbos pales next to modern turbos such as Garret’s dual-ball-bearing GT series.
Finally, the Bosch L-Jetronic-derived flapper-box airflow meter is both inherently restrictive and limited to its measurement range. The mechanical integrity of the long block would seem to be as good as any other Japanese turbo 2.0-liter, once the faults of the ancillaries are corrected.
Some may find it easier or faster to build their version of the perfect raw material than to buy it, though it will almost certainly be more expensive. A rear clip from a later JDM turbo car includes the more powerful engine as well as the revised suspension and larger rear brakes. Legality and wiring are usually up to the owner, but shops such as Toysport (www.toysport.com) and E.L. Prototypes (www.Elprototypes.com) are experienced and can at least make the mechanical part of the conversion a turnkey experience.
If you’re serious about making an MR2 handle well, either buy a 1993-or-later car or plan on changing the rear suspension. The Internet is full of opinions on how to make the MkII handle. The most trustworthy information is from successful autocrossers such as Randy Chase, but is oriented toward the SCCA’s stock-class rules, so it ignores changes as basic and important as spring rates.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
MR2s are basically bulletproof. Hardly anything major goes wrong with these cars, especially the naturally aspirated ones, unless they’ve been modified, abused or neglected. However, there are a few potential problem areas.
The most expensive trouble spot on an otherwise healthy Turbo is the turbocharger itself. Toyota charges enough for a new one that nobody would bother. Rebuilding the stock turbo, typically every 65,000-80,000 miles, costs about $500. Upgrading the Toyota unit is expensive enough to justify switching to a new, more modern design. The airflow sensor may also go bad, often causing problems only intermittently, and typically costs $600.
On T-top cars especially, check the interior carefully for signs of water damage from leaking window seals. The parking brake cables have rubber dust boots at the caliper ends that are usually rotted. Water can enter these and freeze, locking the parking brake on. Some people drive on regardless, with ugly results.
Beyond these points, inspect the car thoroughly. Be certain every electrical item functions, all the levers unlatch their openings and that all trim is present and in good condition. Toyota parts that are not standard service items can be expensive. Get underneath the car and check for bends from accidents or scrapes from possible off-road excursions. In the absence of poor accident repairs, corrosion is unlikely to be a problem except in the saltiest of winter states.
WHAT TO PAY
The chart of prices indicates average transaction amounts for decent cars between private parties in Southern California. The actual number for any particular transaction will vary significantly, depending on options, color, vehicle condition and a buyer’s desires. Exceptional examples and rare colors or option combinations can go for quite a bit more. Prices also very regionally and seasonally.
MkII MR2s are hardly common, even in Southern California. Finding just the right car can take months of searching. Take your time.
The second-generation MR2 is in many ways an affordable exotic you can drive every day. Have fun with it and take good care of it, but don’t expect anybody to mistake it for a Ferarri. It won’t be in the shop nearly enough for that.
TODAY’S MARKET VALUE
Naturally Aspirated Turbo
1991 : $3,490 $4,250
1992 : $4,030 $4,960
1993 : $4,920 $6,400
1994 : $6,030 $7,570
1995 : $6,770 $9,060
this might also be useful
http://members.aol.com/mr2mkii/lookfor.htm
and just a heads up, the 91 and 92 have different suspension setup and a front lip spoiler and smaller brakes and a few other things then the 93
my bf's 93 5sfe ran for about 100k miles before the motor was turbo'ed and right now its at 145k miles
and has yet to run into a real issue, the 5sfe is a motor that is built to last
as for common problems, or things to look out for you can basically go lookin at local mr2 forums,
mr2oc.com is a good place to start
but heres a quote from a magazine study awhile back
"(as published in August 2003 Sport Compact Car magazine)
Enthusiast Buying Guide
Toyota MR2
1991-1995
By Dan Barnes
By the late 1980s, the first Toyota MR2 was struggling to find buyers. A strengthening yen was causing prices to rise and insurance rates for the two-seat sports car were out of control. In addition, the competition was catching up. The new CRX Si was faster, more practical and more economical. Even the supercharged MR2 was in a no-man’s land between affordability and having the speed to run with bigger GTs. The MR2 was looking less and less like a good business plan.
But Toyota still built a new one, following the insurance premiums upward with a larger, faster and more expensive car. The first-generation 1989 models stayed in showrooms until mid-1990, when the new cars were brought in as 1991 models. The second generation lasted until 1995.
Today, a good second-gen. MR2 is one of the best buys on the used sport compact car market. The car is still great looking, and with a little help from the aftermarket, it can be a real giant killer.
BODY
To add interior space, the MR2 MkII was 8.7-inches longer, 1.3-inches wider, 0.2-inches higher, and had a 3.2-inch longer wheelbase than the car it replaced. The penalty paid for this size increase was weight; a nonturbo car weighs about 200 pounds more than a naturally aspirated MkI, and the Turbo tips the scales still 200 pounds beyond that.
Of course, the options list could affect this significantly, but since the Turbo was a premium model, it’s difficult to find one without heavy extras such as T-tops.
One major improvement was in aerodynamics, however, with the coefficient of drag falling from 0.36 on the MkI, or 0.35 with the spoiler, to 0.31.
CHASSIS
The MR2 was straightforward, building on the MkI with MacPherson struts all around. One technical highlight was optional electro-hydraulic power steering, with just 3.1 turns lock-to-lock vs. 3.7 for the manual rack. The system avoided the extra weight of long hydraulic lines and their potential for leaks by using an electric pump at the front of the car.
Not all was perfect, however. Under hard cornering, the rear wheels would toe out, causing difficult-to-control oversteer. Because of this, the rear suspension’s lateral links were lengthened by 98mm and the rear trailing arms’ attachment points were raised 3mm in 1993. This corrected the toe out, and reduced squat under acceleration and dive under braking. The modifications are compatible for retro-fitting, and the required changes are well documented on the Web.
Bigger brakes were also introduced on the Turbo in 1993, as were 15-inch wheels (6-inches wide in front and 7-inches wide in the rear) with 195/55-15 and 225/50-15 tires. Other minor changes included upgrades to the electrical system, all of which makes the 1993-and-later vehicles significantly more desirable.
Trim changes in 1994 include restyled taillights (a common retrofit to older models), and Turbos received two-piston front brake calipers by 1995.
DRIVETRAIN
The new turbocharged 3S-GTE engine made 200 hp at 6000 rpm and impressive low-end power, with 200 lb-ft of torque at only 3200 rpm. With bore and stroke identical at 86mm, it featured an iron block, aluminum head, and forged crank and rods.
The 5S-FE in the naturally aspirated cars was a long-stroke version of the same engine with 166cc more displacement, but had a restrictive cylinder head design and was tuned for torque, redlining at 6300 rpm instead of 7000 rpm like the Turbo.
These engines and the transmissions attached to them were the only major component the new car shared with any other Toyota model. Manual transmissions were five-speeds, with an optional four-speed automatic available only on nonturbo cars.
TUNING
Nonturbo MkIIs show better results in SCCA autocross, but the Turbo is the better car for the street. It starts out with a lot more power and increasing its output is a simple matter of turning up the boost--at first.
As output rises, several hardware changes become important. The stock intake manifold tends to put more air into cylinder three than the others, causing it to run leaner and eventually fail, usually at about 350 hp. The aerodynamic design of factory Toyota turbos pales next to modern turbos such as Garret’s dual-ball-bearing GT series.
Finally, the Bosch L-Jetronic-derived flapper-box airflow meter is both inherently restrictive and limited to its measurement range. The mechanical integrity of the long block would seem to be as good as any other Japanese turbo 2.0-liter, once the faults of the ancillaries are corrected.
Some may find it easier or faster to build their version of the perfect raw material than to buy it, though it will almost certainly be more expensive. A rear clip from a later JDM turbo car includes the more powerful engine as well as the revised suspension and larger rear brakes. Legality and wiring are usually up to the owner, but shops such as Toysport (www.toysport.com) and E.L. Prototypes (www.Elprototypes.com) are experienced and can at least make the mechanical part of the conversion a turnkey experience.
If you’re serious about making an MR2 handle well, either buy a 1993-or-later car or plan on changing the rear suspension. The Internet is full of opinions on how to make the MkII handle. The most trustworthy information is from successful autocrossers such as Randy Chase, but is oriented toward the SCCA’s stock-class rules, so it ignores changes as basic and important as spring rates.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
MR2s are basically bulletproof. Hardly anything major goes wrong with these cars, especially the naturally aspirated ones, unless they’ve been modified, abused or neglected. However, there are a few potential problem areas.
The most expensive trouble spot on an otherwise healthy Turbo is the turbocharger itself. Toyota charges enough for a new one that nobody would bother. Rebuilding the stock turbo, typically every 65,000-80,000 miles, costs about $500. Upgrading the Toyota unit is expensive enough to justify switching to a new, more modern design. The airflow sensor may also go bad, often causing problems only intermittently, and typically costs $600.
On T-top cars especially, check the interior carefully for signs of water damage from leaking window seals. The parking brake cables have rubber dust boots at the caliper ends that are usually rotted. Water can enter these and freeze, locking the parking brake on. Some people drive on regardless, with ugly results.
Beyond these points, inspect the car thoroughly. Be certain every electrical item functions, all the levers unlatch their openings and that all trim is present and in good condition. Toyota parts that are not standard service items can be expensive. Get underneath the car and check for bends from accidents or scrapes from possible off-road excursions. In the absence of poor accident repairs, corrosion is unlikely to be a problem except in the saltiest of winter states.
WHAT TO PAY
The chart of prices indicates average transaction amounts for decent cars between private parties in Southern California. The actual number for any particular transaction will vary significantly, depending on options, color, vehicle condition and a buyer’s desires. Exceptional examples and rare colors or option combinations can go for quite a bit more. Prices also very regionally and seasonally.
MkII MR2s are hardly common, even in Southern California. Finding just the right car can take months of searching. Take your time.
The second-generation MR2 is in many ways an affordable exotic you can drive every day. Have fun with it and take good care of it, but don’t expect anybody to mistake it for a Ferarri. It won’t be in the shop nearly enough for that.
TODAY’S MARKET VALUE
Naturally Aspirated Turbo
1991 : $3,490 $4,250
1992 : $4,030 $4,960
1993 : $4,920 $6,400
1994 : $6,030 $7,570
1995 : $6,770 $9,060
this might also be useful
http://members.aol.com/mr2mkii/lookfor.htm
and just a heads up, the 91 and 92 have different suspension setup and a front lip spoiler and smaller brakes and a few other things then the 93
#4
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 10:46 PM
Wow, that's some really helpful info. Thanks.
Well here's the deal with the car. It's 91, the paint and everything is real clean. This is pretty much what the guy told me.
"It is a 91 toyota mr2 NA. has 170k, ported n polished head, new water pump, belts, clutch, new wires/plugs, gaskets, hks intake, rear turbo strut bar, front strut bar, 5way tokico illuminas shocks/eibach pro kit springs(lowers 1inch), enkei 16 inch rims, with toyo tires. My stereo gave up last week, so car comes with no deck, but has 2 8inch subs. n aftermarket speakers system. Car also has clear corners, 93+ front lip, Toms Sidesskirts, painted rear fins, smoked out taillights."
He's asking $4500. I'm sure that's still quite high for a car with 170K and usually I'm not into buying cars that are already modded since I like to do the work myself. Here's my reasoning though. I pretty much got shafted by the insurance company and I got $3800 from them. I had $700 saved to spend on my 240sx, so now it'll go into my next car. So I have a total of $4500 plus some parts to sell if I don't end up getting another 240. I can most likely spend it all on just a car alone that has lower mileage, but then I'd have nothing left for mods. This car however pretty much already has what I wanted to do done. With the amount I have, it'd be hard for me to find a car that's real clean while having enough to spend on mods. I'm really just trying to find a way to get as close to where my 240sx was as possible. I mean I understand though that 170K is really pretty high mileage, and in the worse case scenario if the engine dies, I'd end up forking in even more cash later to either a rebuild or swap. So what do you guys think? I'm going to be checking this car out in person this weekend.
Well here's the deal with the car. It's 91, the paint and everything is real clean. This is pretty much what the guy told me.
"It is a 91 toyota mr2 NA. has 170k, ported n polished head, new water pump, belts, clutch, new wires/plugs, gaskets, hks intake, rear turbo strut bar, front strut bar, 5way tokico illuminas shocks/eibach pro kit springs(lowers 1inch), enkei 16 inch rims, with toyo tires. My stereo gave up last week, so car comes with no deck, but has 2 8inch subs. n aftermarket speakers system. Car also has clear corners, 93+ front lip, Toms Sidesskirts, painted rear fins, smoked out taillights."
He's asking $4500. I'm sure that's still quite high for a car with 170K and usually I'm not into buying cars that are already modded since I like to do the work myself. Here's my reasoning though. I pretty much got shafted by the insurance company and I got $3800 from them. I had $700 saved to spend on my 240sx, so now it'll go into my next car. So I have a total of $4500 plus some parts to sell if I don't end up getting another 240. I can most likely spend it all on just a car alone that has lower mileage, but then I'd have nothing left for mods. This car however pretty much already has what I wanted to do done. With the amount I have, it'd be hard for me to find a car that's real clean while having enough to spend on mods. I'm really just trying to find a way to get as close to where my 240sx was as possible. I mean I understand though that 170K is really pretty high mileage, and in the worse case scenario if the engine dies, I'd end up forking in even more cash later to either a rebuild or swap. So what do you guys think? I'm going to be checking this car out in person this weekend.
#6
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Posted 13 May 2006 - 12:47 PM
well everything sounds alright, id have to say the 4500 asking price is a bit high, even with those parts because most of it is relatively cheap, however would add up in the end if ur budget isnt very big. those parts are cheap second hand on places like mr2oc.com or your local mr2 forum
you'd also have to realize the non-turbo mr2 is relatively slow... i drove a slightly modded 91 na and compared to my 93 turbo'ed na motor... there was just no umph i guess? if the engine really worries you however , 5sfe (same motor as the older celica and pre-02 camrys') motors are a dime a dozen, you can get a running motor for around 200-400 bucks and as stated in the previous article... the motor is practically bullet proof and un affected by age, my friend has a motor that ran strong even after 200k miles. and as for my engine, there really isnt much that has gone wrong with it, no oil leaks, compression is fine and in the three years that i have owned it, i only had to replace the distributor (and this only happened last week)
did you test drove the car yet?
you'd also have to realize the non-turbo mr2 is relatively slow... i drove a slightly modded 91 na and compared to my 93 turbo'ed na motor... there was just no umph i guess? if the engine really worries you however , 5sfe (same motor as the older celica and pre-02 camrys') motors are a dime a dozen, you can get a running motor for around 200-400 bucks and as stated in the previous article... the motor is practically bullet proof and un affected by age, my friend has a motor that ran strong even after 200k miles. and as for my engine, there really isnt much that has gone wrong with it, no oil leaks, compression is fine and in the three years that i have owned it, i only had to replace the distributor (and this only happened last week)
did you test drove the car yet?
#7
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Posted 13 May 2006 - 01:31 PM
170k actually isn't bad for a 15 year old car either.....
u might need to do do some repairs on the engine....i guess since its a turbo he probably didn't drive it too hard either cuz he doesn't have an extreme amount of miles on it but ya just my opinion u should probably listen to the others who actually know wat they're doing xP
u might need to do do some repairs on the engine....i guess since its a turbo he probably didn't drive it too hard either cuz he doesn't have an extreme amount of miles on it but ya just my opinion u should probably listen to the others who actually know wat they're doing xP
#8
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Posted 13 May 2006 - 02:59 PM
Theres basically no point modding the 5sfe engine, you'll almost for sure never break 200whp. Its like an endless pit and turboing the engine is essentially useless since the 3sgte engine is available moderately cheaply and with just a boost controller will already set you to 200whp.
4500 is pretty high for that car, if nothing else you could pick up a cheap na shell for 2 - 3 and just swap the 3sgte motor into it for 1 - 2g and you'll have an mr2 with the same power as the mr2t, but 200 pounds lighter. (you may have to equip some extra things like sway bars, bigger breaks, etc).
Or even better you can get the 3rd gen 3sgte that comes with a ct20b ceramic turbine turbo that comes with 245 flywheel hp stock and can be pushing to about 275whp relatively easily.
4500 is pretty high for that car, if nothing else you could pick up a cheap na shell for 2 - 3 and just swap the 3sgte motor into it for 1 - 2g and you'll have an mr2 with the same power as the mr2t, but 200 pounds lighter. (you may have to equip some extra things like sway bars, bigger breaks, etc).
Or even better you can get the 3rd gen 3sgte that comes with a ct20b ceramic turbine turbo that comes with 245 flywheel hp stock and can be pushing to about 275whp relatively easily.
#9
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Posted 13 May 2006 - 03:57 PM
I haven't test driven the car yet. I plan to do that tomorrow. I'm definitely going to try and talk the guy down on his price. As for the engine, I know it's on the slow side, but I'm not looking for crazy power, so I have no intentions of modding the engine. I don't have a lead foot like I used to. If I really wanted power, I would have went for this old school corvette I found earlier. With my 240sx, most of the money was spent on suspension work, so as long as the car can handle, I'm happy.
Man, I'd love to stick with a 240, but I'm having no luck finding another one to my liking. At one point I found another S14 for one heck of a price, but I got to it second, and it was sold to the guy who got to it before me.
QUOTE
I say you stick with a 240sx. my humble opinion.
Man, I'd love to stick with a 240, but I'm having no luck finding another one to my liking. At one point I found another S14 for one heck of a price, but I got to it second, and it was sold to the guy who got to it before me.
#10
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Posted 13 May 2006 - 04:22 PM
you live in the south bay? then why are you only lookin at that one mr2. there are tons on craigslist and all over the bay area, for around 5g's you can maybe even find a turbo model. mr2's are strange cars, its a very love/hate relationship. They are definately not a user friendly car, as everyone that ive known personally that has had one has crashed it. me and 2 or 3 other guys i know. but if you are an experienced driver, you'll like it very much. it's one of those cars that is just very difficult to learn to drive
*edit* regardless of if you're looking for big power or not, you're going to be dispoainted with the power. its going to be a good bit slower with 30hp less.
*edit* regardless of if you're looking for big power or not, you're going to be dispoainted with the power. its going to be a good bit slower with 30hp less.
#11
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Posted 13 May 2006 - 11:18 PM
Yea I live in the south bay. I've been looking around on craigslist for the passed month and half. I know there's better MR2s out there, but I stated before that my budget is tight. $4500 is already pushing it for me. If I had near $5K, then I'd keep aiming for another S14, but I can't keep waiting for too long. As for the driver factor, I've spent nights specifically just practicing driving since I first got my license. I'm not saying I'm some crazy good driver, but I'm definitely above average. Either way, I was just looking for some advice, and thanks everybody. I plan to test drive the car tomorrow as stated, and if I don't like it, then I just won't buy it.
Besides, I've driven cars as slow as stock civics to cars with power like my friend's Mach 1 Mustang. The power is great, but I'm really just not gas happy like I used to be, especially with the way gas prices are now. Also, I've driven my friend's old 94 celica which has the same 5SFE engine and his was an auto, I was pretty satisfied with the power most of the time. So with the same engine and a manual tranny, I would think I'd be pretty satisfied.
Besides, I've driven cars as slow as stock civics to cars with power like my friend's Mach 1 Mustang. The power is great, but I'm really just not gas happy like I used to be, especially with the way gas prices are now. Also, I've driven my friend's old 94 celica which has the same 5SFE engine and his was an auto, I was pretty satisfied with the power most of the time. So with the same engine and a manual tranny, I would think I'd be pretty satisfied.
#12
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Posted 14 May 2006 - 10:29 AM
ever considered getting an AW11 instead?
it's gonna make the same power as the NA SW20...and it'll be smaller, better on gas, and more fun to drive.
unless you really do hate the box shape of the AW11...personally, i think it looks pretty damn cool
it's gonna make the same power as the NA SW20...and it'll be smaller, better on gas, and more fun to drive.
unless you really do hate the box shape of the AW11...personally, i think it looks pretty damn cool
#13
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Posted 14 May 2006 - 10:44 AM
god i hate n/a sw20's so much. their engine is the biggest piece of poo. it looses all power in the top end, which makes it no fun to drive. if the engine made the same power, but made it closer to redline that car would be A LOT more fun to drive. as it is the engine takes away from a good chassis
"It's been my experience that straight-line acceleration is probably the first aspect of automotive performance that any intelligent driver gets bored with." - the late Peter Gregg
#14
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- Joined: 07-May 06
Posted 14 May 2006 - 04:49 PM
Its to each and their own but when I still had my NA 91 mr2, it was great low end power. Who said you need power to have fun. The NA mr2 was very well suited for corners. As for the unsafe and crash issues, I've had a spin or two but that was in parking lots with controlled factors. Rain and snow don't mix well with mr2. Thats why I have a 91 civic, 02 wrx, and a 91 mr2. But to be honest with you, I've had my own issues with NA 5sfe. For one, its not jdm so you won't be able to do a cheap swap with a JDM motor, you will have to settle for those high mileage ones from the junk that is not cheap as all of you think it is. Sure you can do a 3sfe swap buts it not going to be smog legal and you might have issues with it running right. Other problems I've seen is EGR failure and other small issues. Tranny wise, I never had a problem. If I could start over I would go with a 91 black t-top shell with power options including power steering (although, non power steering is not bad ether) and swap in a 97+ v6. Or a IS350 V6 if I got money. But really, you can't go wrong with any engine setup. The mr2 is a nice car, you just can't treat it like other cars you drive daily. Rear engine setup do have its own advantages. MR2's in general does really well at the tracks. But again, it takes a skilled driver to drive it well. As for engine swap issues, its not as bad as people say it is. On a scale of 1 being a civic and 10 being a 300zx, I would give it a 5. But if you are a serious moder like me, MR2 will suit you very well. Main thing I like about it is the trunk. I cut the fire wall and use it for all my other mods like water/air intercooler reservior, EMS, turbo setup, and what ever else you can think of. Its a common practice to do trunk mount intercooler. Some setups are very well done.
So if you treat the car like a daily driver, you will hate it. If you treat it like a true sports car, you'll love it.
So if you treat the car like a daily driver, you will hate it. If you treat it like a true sports car, you'll love it.
#15
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- Joined: 04-October 05
Posted 15 May 2006 - 03:09 PM
Well I checked the car out and test drove it and everything yesterday. The car's running strong, and it burned oil previously, but the owner had the seals redone and everything. He actually did a lot of major maintenance not too long ago, so that saves me the trouble. I'm not dissappointed with the power at all, especially since I don't normaly shift passed 3K on normal roads anyways. Not having power steering is going to get some getting used to, but from what I've seen, some people prefer that instead anyways. I've decided to take the car. I'll probably be taking it sometime at the end of the week. Thanks for all the input everybody.
#16
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- Group: Members
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 07-May 06
Posted 15 May 2006 - 04:06 PM
Congrats. I'm sure you will love the car. Post pics when you can. Buy a beater too, Mr2s don't look the way they do by accident. Also avoid driving in the rain when you can or get nice rain tires if you do decide to.
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