does anyone have any experience with
infinity subs? 10incher.
are they a good buy for a 2-door hatch?
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Infinity Subs
#2
Posted 21 August 2006 - 10:12 PM
the only way you'll know if it's good is if you test it yourself. If you've already got an amp wired up for a sub, then take it to a car audio shop. Some of them have subs already hooked up in a box for you to test with. What you need is to get some exposure so you know what different subs sound like and which sounds better to YOU.
Quite frankly I have a feeling no matter what sub you buy, you'll end up satisfied either way. If nothing else, I think it'll be because it sounds like you don't have enough experience and hence no point of reference on what "good" and "bad" sounds like in your car.
Whatever you decide to do, don't forget to get a proper amp that can supply enough power to the sub... perferably an amp that has more power than what the sub is rated for. Like for a sub that requires 300 watts rms @ 4 ohms, you should get an amp that at minimum does 300 watts @4 ohms and preferably 400 watts @ 4 ohms.
There are a few things you'll also need to consider.
First... yes of course subs matter but like in the example above, don't neglect getting a proper amp for it. Great subs that are under-powered sound like crap.
Second, the enclosure (sub box) makes a BIG difference in the sound you get. I would recommend a sealed enclosure for a hatch where the speaker is pointed either straight up at the rear window or at least angled up towards the back of the car. If the sub is pointed directly at you, the sound will suck hard. Ported and band-pass enclosures can give you lower bass but they require the box be custom made for that particular sub. Alot of audio places claim to be able to make custom boxes for you, but most I've seen really don't know what they're doing. What you usually end up with is a sub with poor, delayed response... or very muddy sounding bass. Bottomline, sealed enclosures are easy to build and they're sound-quality oriented boxes. Ported and band-pass boxes will give lower bass but are hard to build properly. Most places use a generic, one size-fits-all box which sound horrible (just like those crappy sub boxes at Best Buys for example).
Third, you are strongly urged to consider dynomating your car. I would recommend doing it yourself to save a ton of money. Heck, I would recommend someone install EVERYTHING (sub, amps, speakers etc) all by themselves to save money... but at least try to do the dynomating on your own. It'll save you the embarrassment of having a car that clanks and rattles with every boom of your sub. It will also make your sub sound a bit louder. That's because it'll be significantly quieter inside the car without all the rattling and stuff. And instead of escaping outside the car, more of the sound will be reflected back at you (a small property of the dynomat).
As you can see, there's alot more to getting a sub than just the sub itself. That being said, I'm sure Infinity's will sound good as long as you do things properly. However, just FYI... those who are into high-quality car audio almost never mention Infinity.
Quite frankly I have a feeling no matter what sub you buy, you'll end up satisfied either way. If nothing else, I think it'll be because it sounds like you don't have enough experience and hence no point of reference on what "good" and "bad" sounds like in your car.
Whatever you decide to do, don't forget to get a proper amp that can supply enough power to the sub... perferably an amp that has more power than what the sub is rated for. Like for a sub that requires 300 watts rms @ 4 ohms, you should get an amp that at minimum does 300 watts @4 ohms and preferably 400 watts @ 4 ohms.
There are a few things you'll also need to consider.
First... yes of course subs matter but like in the example above, don't neglect getting a proper amp for it. Great subs that are under-powered sound like crap.
Second, the enclosure (sub box) makes a BIG difference in the sound you get. I would recommend a sealed enclosure for a hatch where the speaker is pointed either straight up at the rear window or at least angled up towards the back of the car. If the sub is pointed directly at you, the sound will suck hard. Ported and band-pass enclosures can give you lower bass but they require the box be custom made for that particular sub. Alot of audio places claim to be able to make custom boxes for you, but most I've seen really don't know what they're doing. What you usually end up with is a sub with poor, delayed response... or very muddy sounding bass. Bottomline, sealed enclosures are easy to build and they're sound-quality oriented boxes. Ported and band-pass boxes will give lower bass but are hard to build properly. Most places use a generic, one size-fits-all box which sound horrible (just like those crappy sub boxes at Best Buys for example).
Third, you are strongly urged to consider dynomating your car. I would recommend doing it yourself to save a ton of money. Heck, I would recommend someone install EVERYTHING (sub, amps, speakers etc) all by themselves to save money... but at least try to do the dynomating on your own. It'll save you the embarrassment of having a car that clanks and rattles with every boom of your sub. It will also make your sub sound a bit louder. That's because it'll be significantly quieter inside the car without all the rattling and stuff. And instead of escaping outside the car, more of the sound will be reflected back at you (a small property of the dynomat).
As you can see, there's alot more to getting a sub than just the sub itself. That being said, I'm sure Infinity's will sound good as long as you do things properly. However, just FYI... those who are into high-quality car audio almost never mention Infinity.
#4
Posted 22 August 2006 - 09:05 PM
I have an infiniti kappa perfect 10" sub (or something like that, I honestly don't remember the exact model name, bought it like 3 years ago) but it hits hard and is pretty good. At the time it was like $180.
#5
Posted 23 August 2006 - 10:05 PM
I have an infiniti kappa perfect 10" sub (or something like that, I honestly don't remember the exact model name, bought it like 3 years ago) but it hits hard and is pretty good. At the time it was like $180.
If I were to consider buying Infinity, I wouldn't look at anything lower than their Infinity Kappa series. Just like with Pioneer, I wouldn't look at anything lower than the Pioneer Premiers. Both lines are decent for modest car audio setups.
^-----Genius. Wanna help me with the sound system in my rx7? LoL. I'm stilling using the Bose things in there.
For you... nothing but the best that Jensens can offer.
It all depends on how much you want to spend and what kind of sound you're aiming for in your car. If you're looking for just playing music loud, that's pretty easy to do. You can get that done anywhere. If you're looking for modest SQ then it takes a little more careful planning but is also easy to do and costs about the same as a system that only plays loud.
If you're looking for pure SQ that plays LOUD (SQPL), then you'll probably have to upgrade parts of your system in stages unless you're rich. That means pooling your money to buy maybe just the headunit first... then speakers later... then a high-end amp... not neccessarily in that order. Ebay would be a good way to get some of the high-end audio parts at cheap prices. When you sit inside a car geared towards pure SQPL, you'll understand why some people put so much time and money into their system. Huge difference and well worth it.
I've never done an RX-7 but I assume it's pretty much the same as a TT-Z. The 300zx's also come with Bose stock as well. I'm unsure if there's a way to make good 6 1/2inch speakers fit in the front... you might have to go with 5 1/4 like I did. And I barely made my 5 1/4's fit in my Z. I had to use spacers so the big magnet in the back of the speaker didn't hit the window when rolled down (Focal Utopias use BIG magnets).
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